It has a notch up at the top that has a specific point that you're gonna install it in right on that lower control arm pocket. In addition, each spring are heat-treated to ensure durability and longevity. Hey, guys. It's an 18-millimeter nut on the outside and a 15-millimeter bolt head on the inside. Exercise extreme caution, make sure you're doing it properly. Now, here, I'm gonna pop off our factory isolators. Now, one of the other methods that people often use is basically dropping the subframe, one piece at a time. So as you can see, we can read it just like that. I'm gonna take you through every single step of the process, starting with the front here and uninstalling your factory stuff. Now, for the next step, we're gonna attach our shock bolt to the bottom of the shock to the lower control arm. We're gonna go ahead, and back that all the way out. The factory rear springs look like this. I'm just gonna use that to prop this back so that we're relieving the tension there. So what do you say we get to it? We're gonna slowly let this down. All right, first step of the reinstallation here is to grab your driver-side strut. So when they drop into place here, you're basically gonna rotate this to make sure that wall seats up against the end of the spring, both at the top and bottom. We're gonna drop our strut hat right through the middle here. With all that out of the way, the last thing I wanna point out here is your isolators. Now because these have a progressive spring rate, you can expect a comfortable drive under normal driving conditions. I've got one of each on the table to give you that side-by-side. All right, once your whole suspension of the front end is dialed in, you wanna grab a torque wrench and torque down a few things. Now, we can pull it off. All right, with that nut out of the way, you still wanna hold pressure on the upper control arm. You can see it down here seating up against that isolator. We're gonna put the pad underneath of the lower control arm right under the spring. You can see at the top end here, they're a lot tighter wound together with bigger gaps at the bottom end. With the whole thing out, take the strut hat right off with the boot, spring comes out, and we can set this aside. So here's the upper isolator, and the lower isolator is coming with it. So we're gonna decompress the spring. Race-Inspired Look and Performance. AmericanMuscle is proud to offer FREE SHIPPING on any order over $75! So we're gonna use a ratcheting wrench. We're gonna slowly let this down. We still have our factory springs on our built-in strut, and we have to get those off in order to get our Eibach one on. And I gotta say, the Challenger comes with a little more wheel gap than I'd like off the factory line. If you're not comfortable tackling this yourself, guys, there's no shame handing it over to a professional to get done properly. Knew where I wanted to start with mods. Ownership does not affect chances of winning, (15-22 Challenger Hellcat, Scat Pack, SRT 392), Review & Install - Eibach Pro-Kit Performance Lowering Springs Video. There are no deductibles required for use of this extended product warranty. Set your torque wrench at 74-foot-pounds. So progressive springs are gonna have that sportier feel. Once it's decompressed, you won't have any plan where the spring seats on the isolator. That'll give us a little bit more of a headache-free install, putting our new Eibach Springs into place. On the end, that'll have a seat on that lower isolator we just installed. Next step here under the hood is to remove the strut tower cap, which is basically that chrome trim that we have here. So we're just gonna rotate this back up into position. So that'll go right on the top. So this is really just plugged right in. I'm gonna show you a couple of the steps here. You just wanna do whatever you have to do to break this loose. Rotate this in, and it stops. Drop it down into place, and we're gonna thread that nut back through. Now, in order to do that, I wanna let you know there are a couple of different methods to go about this. Now we're gonna grab a bungee cord to make sure with this entire hub support, it's not putting too much pressure on the brake line. Your sway bar end link, you're gonna do 74-foot-pounds. Now, Eibach does have a more aggressive drop with a sportline kit, and there is a number of different options on the site, this one being a little bit more mild of a lowering spring as far as the drop is concerned.The quality of the spring doesn't change, still high-tensile steel springs similar to the OEM quality stuff. So let's get that disconnected. I just think this is an easier method, but it's all personal preference. If you don't have access to these, an impact gun does the trick, but you wanna put it on its strongest mode. We're gonna take our top strut hat and do the same thing we did, taking it off, just in reverse order. All right, once you get that bolt hole lined up, grab your bolt, your stock bolt, set it into place. And you can clearly see the difference, especially when it comes to the rear springs. The install is gonna get full three-out-of-three wrenches on our difficulty meter. We've got our torque wrench here and 21-millimeter half socket on the end here. Next step is our sway bar end link. First thing we're gonna do is take the hydraulic jack. Now, the goal here to reinstall our spring is to basically get just enough thread through the top that we can put the nut on.We can gun it on from there, and torque it down. We're gonna go ahead, and back that all the way out. So what you wanna do is make sure you're gunning this off from this side, but you may need to wedge a pry bar on the other side to keep that from spinning. Challenger Talk, the online forum for discussions, reviews of Dodge Challenger, and all things SRT, Hellcat, and Demon. Start that threading by hand to make sure it catches. Set that aside. From there, we're gonna lower that hydraulic jack, and it's basically just gonna slowly drop down the lower control arm, taking the compression and the weight intention off of the spring, allowing us to pull it out, throw our Eibach one in, and just jack that thing right back up, stick the bolt through, and do it in reverse order. Adam here with americanmuscle.com. Now you can repeat for the other side. If you're not using air tools, it will be a little bit more difficult simply because this is extremely tight and all of the tension between them is, you know, keeping it on, as well as the fact that the bushing in here likes to spin as well. So we're gonna hook this around. Works with adaptive suspension. We'll pull the whole thing out, get to work on our spring compressor. So we got everything disconnected, it's about time we just remove the strut from the suspension. We're eliminating a lot of that factory wheel gap. Now, I just find this to be a whole lot easier. At this point, just repeat for the other side of your rear end, and you'll be good to go. But if you're working on the ground, it can get a little bit more tricky. It'll relieve the pressure from the spring and basically just limp right out of place. Now, the trick to getting these holes to line up is to take a flathead screwdriver and insert it into the opposite end where the bulk end would come out of. Now, guys, it's time to work on our spring compressor. ROUSH IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ROUSH ENTERPRISES, INC. CHEVROLET, CHEVROLET CAMARO, CAMARO, LS, LT, LT1, SS, Z/28, ZL1, AND ECOTEC ARE REGISTERED TRADEMARKS OF GENERAL MOTORS LLC.. AMERICANMUSCLE HAS NO AFFILIATION WITH THE FORD MOTOR COMPANY, ROUSH ENTERPRISES, FIAT CHRYSLER AUTOMOBILES, SALEEN, OR GENERAL MOTORS LLC.. Now, speaking of lowering the vehicle, 1.1 inches in the front, 1.2 inches in the rear is what you can expect, effectively leveling out that vehicle. Love the results but those dang CV boots started to fail after around 20K miles or so. Now, like I said, I like to thread this nut back in just so we know where it is because that'll get reinstalled once we have our new springs in place. You might have to adjust the position and the angle of that control arm. So we're gonna tackle our sway bar end link, we're gonna tackle the bottom strut bolt, and we're gonna tackle the upper controller arm. Enter your email to receive your coupon code and start upgrading your Challenger. You don't wanna be backing the bolt head off just yet. You wanna rest these arms flat up on the bottom coil here without coming in contact with the bottom of the seat. And today, we're taking a closer look at and, of course, installing the Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs available for the 2015 newer Scat Pack and Hellcat Challengers. Now, we're gonna be cranking the nut off. It gives you a flat solid surface to work with. All right, so we're gonna tap away just right here avoiding the bushing. Set that aside. Grab a 13-millimeter socket, and remove the three nuts holding this in place. These things are gonna keep those spring rates consistent no matter what the driving condition, whether it be in traffic, on a highway, or if you had to drag strip during a hard launch.Now, those springs to stay consistent, and they're very predictable. In order to do that, we mounted our spring on to the compressor here with the strut placed through the bottom of it. Grab an 18-millimeter socket, and pull this right off. If you're not comfortable tackling this yourself, guys, there's no shame handing it over to a professional to get done properly. All right, the last step of the driver side of our rear end is to reassemble our exhaust pipe. That's a linear spring, even gaps among each of the coils. If your covered part fails within the extended warranty time frame, simply call the program administrator at 1-844-870-4881 for instructions before any repairs or replacements have begun. It's all personal preference, but I find it to be easier just to put the nuts in place to hold the strut up while we work down low.And the last thing we'll do for the assembly is tighten it all down up here. Just get that off, line that up with the back-mounting position on your strut, and tighten that nut down from the back end. So we're just gonna push down to get a little flex on the lower control arm. So in order to remedy that situation, we basically loosened up the clamp holding the exhaust pipe next to the actuator for our active exhaust. For our uninstall, if you remember, it was a struggle getting that bolt out that holds the lower control arm to the frame simply because the exhaust tailpipe is in the way on our driver side. The top isolator, if you remember, just like our spring compressor situation, is gonna seat properly as well. Now the biggest thing I wanna point out here is the drop. So we have our coil over here mounted right up on the bottom coils. The reason being is we don't want this to jolt off. Now, before we get started, I wanna point one thing out. Now, one of the other methods that people often use is basically dropping the subframe, one piece at a time. I recommend wedging a pry bar in the outside. Now, as you remember, we have this bungee cord, so we're gonna have to remove that. We're gonna rotate that, so you can see the bottom coil lined up with its wall that it needs to sit against. No sense putting everything back together with the crappy isolators just to find out that they're breaking and you need new ones anyway and then having to redo all of it. So grab an 18 socket, put it on the nut, and a 15 wrench or socket, and put it on the bolt head.All right, for the next bolt here connecting our lower control arm to the frame, what we're gonna do is use a 15-millimeter wrench for the bolt head and an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench for the opposite side, for the nut. Now, we're gonna kick things off through the uninstall of our rear springs. So when they drop into place here, you're basically gonna rotate this to make sure that wall seats up against the end of the spring, both at the top and bottom. I personally think this is how the Challenger should come from the factory. But it will get progressively sportier under heavier load, hard launches, aggressive cornering, all the things I just mentioned. So what do you say we get to it? But if you're working freehand, just be really careful. However, the coverage is valid only for the original purchaser and other exclusions will apply. Grab an 18-millimeter socket, and pull this right off. If you have a rope or something like that, or even a hanger, that'll do the trick. You don't have to worry about lining things back up and using pole jacks and whatnot. And I just wanted to give you guys a quick side-by-side comparison between the Eibach and our stock springs. Now, we're gonna indicate our driver side because the welded-on nut here is gonna be facing the front of the vehicle. Loosen that up, and you can just drop the entire tailpipe downward a little bit after unbolting the tailpipe tip if you remember that as well. Now, we're gonna kick things off through the uninstall of our rear springs. Now, another big change comes in with the spring rate. It'll relieve the pressure from the spring and basically just limp right out of place. So in order to remedy that situation, we basically loosened up the clamp holding the exhaust pipe next to the actuator for our active exhaust. You wanna make sure you're keeping these because they'll be reused with our new Eibach ones. Slide those out of the way, pull it out. It's screwed on, so just lefty loosey, you know. Now, it can be a little tricky. Now that we have this supported, what we're gonna do is disconnect our upper control arm from the hub assembly. We still have our factory springs on our built-in strut, and we have to get those off in order to get our Eibach one on. Now, we can pull it off. Dont worry about your tire and wheel clearance when installing these Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs. You're getting that aggressive, lowered muscle car stance. We've got our front springs over here and our rears here. Progressive Spring Rate Technology. And you might find it easier to do what we did in the beginning by putting like, you know, a jack stand or a hydraulic jack and pushing up on the suspension to line it up. And as you can see, it looks really, really good. The goal here is to basically take the pressure and tension off of the spring in order to safely remove the top hat without the spring decompressing. Extended Warranty. Now, this is stuck, so we have to dislodge the upper control arm. Thats why Eibach developed their own proprietary progressive springs to improve handling on the road and on the tracks. And going from your linear to progressive with the Eibach with the 1.1 in the front, 1.2 in the rear, you're definitely gonna feel a sportier ride, and one that's more controlled. Please save this email for possible future reference. Your Dodge Challenger will have the look of a classic muscle car after installing these springs. So that's all we needed to do.At this point, we're gonna go under the hood, and remove the three top strut tower nuts holding this in place. We have a 2016 392 Scat Pack in the shop ready for some Eibach Springs. Now, progressive springs typically stay pretty comfortable under normal driving conditions. Use our 13 bolt to tighten this back down to the frame rail. All right, so we got enough thread definitely from the top. It seats right in a very specific order.So with that out of the way, we can grab our spring, and you're gonna install this with the tightly wound coils at the top and the spaced-out coils at the bottom. So that's what we're gonna do next. Once you have it lined up, we'll slip the bolt hole in, hammer it into place, and then do our bottom shock bolt. Slide this out of place, set this aside, and let's reconnect that bungee cord. I'm gonna put a piece of wood right on top to give it a nice flat, even surface. If you're not using air tools, it will be a little bit more difficult simply because this is extremely tight and all of the tension between them is, you know, keeping it on, as well as the fact that the bushing in here likes to spin as well. You'll see it only rotates in one way. All right, switch over to an 18 socket.So what do you say we start the install on the rear? Now, in order to do that, we're gonna need an 18-millimeter short socket to get this off. Details. It's not getting lost because that will get reinstalled later. The next step here is to put either a pull jack if you're working up in the air, or a floor jack or hydraulic jack underneath the suspension components here underneath the hub to support the weight. Once you have it lined up top, we'll try to line up your bottom half of the strut over the bolt holes. With all of that out of the way, the first step is to grab a 21-millimeter socket. You may need to use a hammer to tap it back in.All right, with the bolt all the way through to the other side, grab your 18-millimeter nut, thread it on by hand. Then the next step, all you have to support it is to get your bottom shock bolt out. I'm gonna hook this back that way, even just a little bit takes that pressure off, and now we have a little slack here. But I don't think we're gonna need that here. We've got a wall-mounting oppressor, which is a lot easier than a free-hand one. So that'll be right under your axle shaft. Now, if you start running into the issue that I'm running into where the bushing is just continually spinning in the sway bar end link, it's gonna make it hard to pop this nut out of place. Professional Installation Recommended. With all of that out of the way, the first step is to grab a 21-millimeter socket. The factory rear springs look like this. The goal here is to basically take the pressure and tension off of the spring in order to safely remove the top hat without the spring decompressing. Now, the goal here to reinstall our spring is to basically get just enough thread through the top that we can put the nut on.We can gun it on from there, and torque it down. So it all depends on what tools you have on hand, which will translate to how quickly you can get the job done. Now, grab an 18 and a 15, and tighten them down. Keyword being, slowly.All right, as you can see, the spring came out of place. And again, we're working on the wall-mounted one. So we're just gonna rotate this back up into position. We're just gonna basically take this nut out of place, line these two up. If you have ratcheting wrenches or just a regular wrench, an 18-mil, that can also work. All right, now, we can insert our spring making sure the bottom coil seats where we want it to. You don't have to worry about lining things back up and using pole jacks and whatnot. All right, so we got these connected. Reply HELP to 77572 for help. So what I'm gonna do is actually leave everything as it is right now, head under the car, grab a 13-millimeter socket, and remove the bolt holding this tailpipe up right above the tailpipe kit. The top isolator, if you remember, just like our spring compressor situation, is gonna seat properly as well. Your front end is a little bit lower than the rear, so bringing down the front a little bit less than the rear levels things out and give it a nice, even, aggressive stance.In addition to the aggressive stance, you're also getting a number of performance benefits as well, thanks to the lowered center of gravity on your Scat Pack or your Hellcat. We've got our front springs over here and our rears here. So we finally got all of our springs off of the 16 Challenger behind me and on the table. So grab an 18 socket, put it on the nut, and a 15 wrench or socket, and put it on the bolt head.All right, for the next bolt here connecting our lower control arm to the frame, what we're gonna do is use a 15-millimeter wrench for the bolt head and an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench for the opposite side, for the nut. We're gonna go ahead, and slip this into place. But if you're working on the ground, that's no problem, just have jack stand supporting the frame rails to make sure your vehicle is properly supported. There's nothing perfect just yet, but just get it nice and lined up. So once you get your wheels off of your Challenger, have it supported up in the air. Keep in mind, no matter what method you take, you're going to need to get an alignment afterward.So keep that in mind moving forward. Now, ours are looking pretty good, so we're gonna reuse them.But keep in mind, none of them are included in the kit. All right, at this point, we have the tension taken off the spring, 18 socket here right on top of the nut. All right, the next step here is to line up the bottom of our strut with the holes in the lower control arm, which may require you to just give a little play in the suspension to line those bolt holes up. They change depending on your driving conditions, and how hard your launches are, and, you know, the different loads being put on them. Tools used in this install include a cordless impact, half-inch air impact gun, a 3/8 and half-inch ratchet, 13-millimeter deep socket, 15-millimeter deep socket, 15 and two 18-millimeter half-inch sockets, 18-millimeter 3/8 socket, 21-millimeter deep half-inch socket, and a 13-millimeter swivel socket, variety of extensions, swivel socket, 15, 18, and 21-millimeter wrenches or ratcheting wrenches, flathead screwdriver, two bungee cords, pry bar, torque wrench, ball pin hammer.Additional tools include a hydraulic floor jack, jack stands, and a spring compressor. And we're gonna unbolt the lower control arm from the subframe at the back. Step number one is, use your 21-millimeter socket to remove the bolt holding on your sway bar end link to your factory strut. All right, at this point, we have the tension taken off the spring, 18 socket here right on top of the nut. I'm gonna show you guys what I find to be the easiest. And I'll show you guys why this matters. So let's get that disconnected. And again, we're working on the wall-mounted one. But we know that these cars come with a pretty big wheel gap from the factory. You wanna make sure you're not putting any tension on this once the suspension starts to droop down when we disconnect the upper control arm. As you can see, it's getting to the point where we can't back this bolt up anymore because of the exhaust tailpipe on our driver side. There's a couple of them throughout this line, just pull them off we'll reconnect them later. So that's in place. We'll be able to pull it out. I don't think they make the sportline for your car? So when operating a spring compressor, it goes without saying, guys, it can be extremely dangerous. Now, we'll talk a little bit more about that later on when we compare the Eibach to the factory options. But if yours are looking worse for wear, you might wanna pick them up now while everything is uninstalled. VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter Street, Suite 600, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada. So this is really just plugged right in. You're gonna put that right past the rotor on the bottom of a hub assembly, just line that up, so that when you lower it, that's what making contact. Now, if you're looking to get this particular drop for your Hellcat or your Scat Pack, you can do so right under the $300 mark, around 290, 291 bucks on the site. With the whole thing out, take the strut hat right off with the boot, spring comes out, and we can set this aside. You'll feel it go all the way through and catch, grab an 18 socket, and tighten that down. Now, if you start running into the issue that I'm running into where the bushing is just continually spinning in the sway bar end link, it's gonna make it hard to pop this nut out of place. Please complete the following steps to add to cart: We're sorry. First thing we're gonna do is take the hydraulic jack. It has a notch up at the top that has a specific point that you're gonna install it in right on that lower control arm pocket. Now, as you remember, we have this bungee cord, so we're gonna have to remove that. Set that into place, and tighten it down until you hear the click. But aside from just the good looks, you're also getting a lot of performance benefits as well with some springs. You just unbolt it from the chassis, lower it down, pop this out. It's just a complete circle.So it makes it a little more difficult. But if you're working on the ground, that's no problem, just have jack stand supporting the frame rails to make sure your vehicle is properly supported. So what I'm gonna do is basically lower this down onto the wood just enough that it touches and then just a little bit further past that to put some weight on it. Next step, we're gonna remove the strut bolt on the bottom of our strut holding into our lower control arm. If you're working with a free-hand one, again, just take extreme caution. Once you get that popped off, we'll disconnect the sway bar end link. So making sure that the springs are still seated properly at the top and bottom, which they are, grab the factory nut, spread it on by hand up here. And you can clearly see the difference, especially when it comes to the rear springs. It's all personal preference, but I find it to be easier just to put the nuts in place to hold the strut up while we work down low.And the last thing we'll do for the assembly is tighten it all down up here. Remove the three, and then we'll be able to pop this thing out. So we're gonna tackle our sway bar end link, we're gonna tackle the bottom strut bolt, and we're gonna tackle the upper controller arm. I'm gonna put a piece of wood right on top to give it a nice flat, even surface. Now, this isn't gonna get installed to the spring directly. A Covered Part has failed when it can no longer perform the function for which it was originally designed solely because of its condition and not because of the action or inaction of any non-covered parts. It might take a little trial and error repositioning your jack, making sure it's leveled. Well, guys, that's gonna wrap up my quick overview and install for the Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs available for the 15 and newer Scat Pack and Hellcat Challengers. We're eliminating a lot of that factory wheel gap. Drop it down into place, and we're gonna thread that nut back through. Ive heard the Redeye half shafts are more lowering friendly so may be giving those a shot this summer. But it will get progressively sportier under heavier load, hard launches, aggressive cornering, all the things I just mentioned. Now because we're working on a 2016, our isolators are looking pretty dang new, so we're not gonna need replacements. We'll pull the whole thing out, get to work on our spring compressor. Now the biggest thing I wanna point out here is the drop. So it all depends on what tools you have on hand, which will translate to how quickly you can get the job done. On the end, that'll have a seat on that lower isolator we just installed. Now, it can be a little tricky. Now, if you remember, I put our nut right back on the stud. Msg and data rates may apply. Just get that off, line that up with the back-mounting position on your strut, and tighten that nut down from the back end. 2003-2021 AMERICANMUSCLE.COM. Now, the upper control arm bushing we've already done, this is 35-foot-pounds plus a 90-degree turn. Mechanical expertise or professional installation required. So it can be a tough task, but, you know, have some patience. Now, if you guys aren't familiar with the terminology, linear springs are gonna be a lot more predictable off the line. It might take a little trial and error repositioning your jack, making sure it's leveled. I just think this is an easier method, but it's all personal preference. Use our 13 bolt to tighten this back down to the frame rail. From there, we'll disconnect the upper control arm. Grab a 13-millimeter socket, and remove the three nuts holding this in place. Now because these have a progressive spring rate, you can expect a comfortable drive under normal driving conditions. You just unbolt it from the chassis, lower it down, pop this out. Grab an 18 wrench or socket on this side and your 15 sock on the opposite side, and it'll pull through, and you gun it on. All right, switch over to an 18 socket.So what do you say we start the install on the rear? Consent to receive text messages is not a condition of any purchase or service. Now, if you remember, they just pop right into these plastic clips. You may need special clamps for the job so consult with a professional if youre not confident enough to do the job. Tap here to get it to dislodge, then we'll pry down, remove it, and disconnect them. All right, the next step here is to line up the bottom of our strut with the holes in the lower control arm, which may require you to just give a little play in the suspension to line those bolt holes up. Eibachs Tough Construction. That is a clear indication of a progressive spring. Now, we can slowly decompress the spring. Grab a 21-millimeter socket, and tighten that down.All right, the next step here down low is to reconnect our ABS lines. From there, you can actually pry up from the inside and line up those bolt holes. Now, the trick to getting these holes to line up is to take a flathead screwdriver and insert it into the opposite end where the bulk end would come out of. Now, if you're taking it through my way, I'm gonna take you step by step. The benefits available under this Limited Warranty are strictly provided to you for the replacement of the Covered Part(s) which fails due to a defect. Also, putting pressure on it, pulling down on this, will prevent this from spinning a little bit more than just having it free bird.
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